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With Reuben Goossens

Maritime Historian, Cruise‘n’Ship Reviewer & Author

 

P&O Cruises England

SS Canberra

Including my 1996 Cruise Report

 

Canberra in Sydney – 26 February 1996

When I decided to add a page to ssMaritime featuring the Canberra, I realised that there where many excellent websites detailing her history. Thus, this feature is based on one of my experiences sailing on this fine ship. The brief voyage report hereunder is the result of a cruise sector on Canberra’s 1996 Round the World Voyage. I trust you will enjoy these pages that include several photo pages. It is my sincere hope that looking back at this great liner will provide you with many happy memories, be it as a past passenger, crewmember, or one of countless thousands who admired her whilst she was in port.

Canberra’s Maiden Voyage - Arriving in Melbourne on 27 June 1961

 

Photograph by Mr Albert Cerrachio of New Jersey USA

Above is a unique photograph of Canberra departing New York on July 4 1979, during “Operation Sail” held at that time. As part of the celebration, all participating ocean liners in port departed at the same time and sailed in procession down the Hudson River and out to sea. Other ships included Holland America’s ss Rotterdam and Home Lines Oceanic.

Voyage Report

As my taxi approached the wharf, memories flooded back to the day I first saw the mighty Canberra arrive in Wellington New Zealand in 1961 whilst on her maiden voyage. Being just sixteen years old she seemed a massive ship, towering high into the sky. Now, in 1996, she still looked a big ship, but she is considered small compared to the super cruise ships sailing the waves these days. With her long sleek lines, she certainly looked graceful, unlike the cruise ships of today, which look more like floating apartment blocks. Externally Canberra looked as grand and modern as she did back the day I first saw her. My excitement grew, as I was ready to board. After an efficient and courteous embarkation procedure, I crossed the gangplank and stepped once more on this great liner. Upon entering I received the familiar friendly greeting from a familiar P&O officer and soon a steward showed me to my cabin. Soon, my cabin steward Casy introduced himself and immediately I found his friendliness and efficiency quite impressive. Casy, together with the night steward provided excellent service throughout the voyage. However, it must be said, all crew on Canberra were polite, hospitable, but, most of all, friendly. My cabin was in a perfect state and had a cosy homely atmosphere, typical of an older ship. A note of welcome awaited all those boarding Canberra, from a good old friend of mine, Captain Rory Smith. Passengers embarking found a comprehensive portfolio of information including a list of facilities aboard. All passengers was issued a Cruise Card to be used for all onboard purchases, which today is common place.

A fine view looking aft to her superstructure & bridge

(Photo © Peter Knego)

Soon, I was exploring a very different Canberra from the one I remembered when she first arrived in Wellington in 1961 and I was happy to find her in such great shape.

Having been given a major refurbishment after her brave Tour of Duty in the Falklands, she became a fine modern cruise ship. Public rooms were superbly furnished and decorated. Since my first sailing on her some 35 years ago lounges and public spaced had changed greatly, except for the celebrated Cricketers Tavern.

Lounges and other Venues

Meridian Lounge and Bar

The quietly glamorous Meridian Lounge forward on Promenade Deck proudly boasts a grand piano in the centre of the lounge. Centre forward the famed marble staircase reached up to the fabulous Crows Nest three decks up on Games deck. This staircase is the forerunner of the modern atriums found on most modern cruise ships.

Forward of the Meridian Lounge is the superbly Century Bar with its fine wood clad walls. This bar featured two of the best barmen I have encountered in many years. Both Andrew and Peter quickly came to know passengers by name and they added to the experience of a great ocean voyage through their friendliness, humour and superb service.

 

Ocean Room

The Ocean Room (ex William Fawcett Lounge) had a feel of quiet opulence and many hours were spent here enjoying a variety of entertainment. The Pursers Office and several shops are located between the Meridian Lounge and the Ocean Room.

 

Cricketers Tavern

Just aft on the port side is the ever-popular Cricketers Tavern. This room to my delight was mostly unchanged from the day she was built, retaining that much loved feeling. The only obvious change being the lush leather upholstery.

 

Neptune’s Nightclub

Aft, on Promenade Deck, the old Peacock Room had become Neptune’s Nightclub. Many excellent shows were presented here including the popular Abba Night. Sadly, I only have photographs of the port and starboard aft annexes. (If anyone can supply a number of photographs of this venue, I would appreciate them).

 

Alice Springs Lounge

One deck up, aft on B Deck is the Alice Springs Lounge and Bar. Floor to ceiling windows face out to one of the ships three swimming pools. This room has a casual atmosphere, whilst providing fine ocean views over the stern. The rest of this deck is occupied with accommodations.

 

Cinema

Amidships is the Cinema, which is unaltered from the day she was built except for seating having been recovered with new fabrics. The cinema was also used for lectures and Church services, etc.

 

Crow’s Nest 

The most forward Lounge on Games Deck is Crows Nest. This room features sweeping forward and side windows, affording splendid views of the bow. This room is the shining crown of SS Canberra. Fittings in this room, as in all public rooms were superbly maintained, and featured many plants as well as fresh flowers.

Located between Crow’s Nest and the Bonito Club, is the Stadium Theatre (one a sports deck) where the ships regular production show are featured. Sadly views were restricted somewhat from various vantage points due to the posts scattered around the room.

 

Bonito Club

Adjoining the original first class Swimming Pool, is the memorable Bonito Night Club, a room full of charm featuring that much talked about “sprung dance floor.” With tables set with white linen tablecloths and fine china, morning coffee is served daily, both in the Bonito Club and the Ocean Lounge,.

 

Pool

Amidships is the multi level decks that surround the original First Class Swimming Pool, with a Bar located forward Port side. One of the great joys in the morning, whilst lazing away in the sun a steward in a perfectly white jacket would come around and offer an ice cream.

 

Island Room

One Deck up, on Games deck we find Island Room, which is a favourite with many, especially early in the morning as tea, coffee and pastries are available before Breakfast. On the starboard side of the room is a bar. At night, the room turns into a lively Disco.

With ample seating both inside and on the adjoining glass enclosed areas, Buffets are served for both breakfast and lunch, as well as the occasional lunchtime BBQ’s.

Forward of the Island Room on the Port side is the Children’s Play Room, which offered the young ones with a fine cruise experience, whilst meeting many new friends. Aft is the Lido Pool, overlooking the stern.

 

Dinning Rooms

Both the Pacific and the Atlantic Restaurants have retained much of its original look, with the exception of new soft furnishings and new light fittings. Both Restaurants are decorative and inviting. Food is always a highlight of any ocean voyage, and Canberra certainly did not let us down. Food was of a high standard, with ample choice for all tastes, including vegetarian meals. Although Buffet Breakfasts and Lunches being available in the Island Room on Games Deck, the dinning rooms offer a fully served hot breakfast and a four course lunch. One of my personal favourites is the daily Curry option, which is accompanied a variety of fresh condiments. However, Dinner is always the highlight of the day. It can feature up to seven courses, and has a variety of options, being ample to satisfy the largest, and the most discerning appetites. What made our meals such an event was the excellent service received from our table waiters, who simply could not do enough to be of service! On a number of nights an officer would join our table for dinner, adding to the overall experience of the cruise.

The forward Pacific Restaurant was the originally the first class dinning room

 

The Atlantic Restaurant was originally the Tourist Class dinning room

 

That’s Entertainment

Entertainment on board is vast and has something to please even the fussiest. Here is an example of a single night’s programme. A Classical performance or a Cabaret would be featured in the Ocean Lounge, whilst a vibrant production show such as the “Abba Gold Show” would be presented in the Neptune Lounge. Those who desired a quieter evening with a drink would head for the Meridian Lounge and Century Bar were the ships pianist would play the grand piano. Each evening prior dinner, a pianist would also play pre-dinner music in Crows Nest. During the World Voyage, entertainers would board in different ports, ensuring a variety of musicians during the 80-day voyage. During our voyage a brilliant Harpist boarded, who played soothing tunes. Each evening a number of bands played in various of lounges, providing music for all tastes. For those who enjoyed dancing the night away, headed for the Disco in the Island Room, which offered a great time for all and no one left disappointed! One of my highlights onboard was the Stadium Theatre Company's production of shortened production of “Les Miserables,” which just happens to be my favourite show. it was a pleasure to experience on the night before arriving home in Sydney. You might ask the question, “Did they do the show justice? My response is a hearty “YES.” P&O has maintained a high quality of entertainment on all their cruises! 

Reuben Goossens (1996).

Later Addition: In 2005 I enjoyed a delightful cruise on the MV Oriana from Brisbane to Southampton, then in  2007 sailed on MV Aurora from San Francisco to and in 2008 on Oriana again from Brisbane to Southampton, but via South Africa, although these voyages were good I did find that the quality of the entertainment has declined somewhat, even between what were enjoyed on Canberra and on these two new ships. I really feel that the American Carnival Corp is tightening the purse a lot, as well as there is so much marketing now on board all their ships, always getting more and more dollars out of you in one way or another, not like it was in the delightful uncomplicated days when we sailed on ships like the SS Canberra and SS Oriana!

A delightful addition and a memory of the good old days of the SS Canberra: Early in July I received an email from the First Class Dining Room steward Eddie Groody who served aboard her in the sixties. He was kind enough to send me an excellent photograph of the Dining Saloon staff during a voyage in 1963, and has given me the names of those he can still remember. I have numbered these and placed the names below. However, if any of my readers, passengers or past crew members can provide further named, these would be appreciated. Email me at info@ssmaritime.com. Thank you Eddie for your contribution and providing some great memories of her great days of sailing!

Back row – left, 1. Andy Cruickshank, Second row centre, 2. Peter Smith, 3. Matt Doyle, 4. Eddie Groody, 5. Mark Lindsay, Front row – right, 6. Noel Coward - Asst Head Waiter.

Photograph provided and owned by Eddie Groody – used with permission

Asst Head Waiters information was provided in Oct 2011 by the Asst Head Waiter in the Tourist Class Restaurant, Geoff Cook who shared a cabin with Noel Coward

 

In Conclusion - Updated in March 1998

Sadly on Friday October 10, 1997, at 2100hrs, under the command of my good friend Captain Mike Carr, the SS Canberra slipped away from 38/9 berth and headed for the Pakistani breakers. On October 28 she anchored off Karachi, and on October 31, her draft was trimmed to the angle of the beach at Gadani. Then with her steaming at almost full speed and we have been told that she was accompanied by the bagpipes being played full volume over the open deck circuits, SS Canberra was officially beached at 0940hrs, local time.

Thus the great SS Canberra is now long gone, but, there are countless thousands who will live with the wonderful memories of days spent on this Grand Dame of P&O. We need to realise that ship designs change, just like cars, fashions and home designs! Even though the modern cruise ship, do not have the long sleek elegant lines of the Canberra, many do have an interior charm of their own. Of the many modern cruise ships, I firmly believe that the new 1995 built MV Oriana II and also the MV Aurora, but not as much, stand out from most other cruise ships in the modern days (the Holland America Line ships are the exception as the are simply the very best of all!), as the MV Oriana seems to continue very much the style of the SS Canberra as well as her namesake the SS Oriana!

Prior to Canberra’s demise on that lonely Pakistani beach there were overtures of saving this grand lady of the Sea from the breakers and use her as a floating hotel/convention centre here in Sydney Australia. However, tragically this was rejected 1. By P&O for they refused to sell her. There were a number of cruise companies who would have happily purchased the Canberra. However, P&O’s British pride upheld their previous stand, which stated, that no ship that was purpose built for P&O would ever sail for another company. Yet, it was the very lack of that same so-called pride, when P&O simply sold-out the company and that British pride by “Lord MUCK” to the glitzy American Carnival Corp Plc, and they became part of the massive money making machine of Carnival Cruises. So much for P&O’s British pride! SS Canberra could and should have lived on! (Late entry) SS Oriana was badly damaged by a typhoon at Dalian China and she was broken up in China in 2006.

Having said all the aforementioned, P&O Cruises remains relatively British and passengers still receive a good cruise experience of a good standard. Since the demise of the Canberra, I have sailed on the maiden World Voyage of both the Arcadia (today she is P&O Cruises Australia MV Pacific Pearl), the maiden world voyage and the Pacific crossing on the MV Aurora. However, my last sailing on the Oriana was somewhat disappointing for I found that maintenance on board was extremely poor and the food seemed to be constantly heading downhill each time I sailed with P&O UK.

Images below are of Canberra’s final arrival in Sydney on 22 February 1997 and her sad farewell the next day! And her final homecoming in Southampton.

Canberra arriving in Sydney for her final visit to Australia - 22 February 1997

 

Canberra heads for Sydney Heads - 23 February 1997

 

Canberra returning from her “Farewell Cruise” in Southampton 30 September 1997

 

General Specifications

Overall Length …                                        820’

Beam …                                                    102’

Draught …                                                 32’6”

Gross registered Tonnage …                         44,807 tons

Service Speed …                                        27.5 knots

Propulsion …                                              Turbo-electric – twin screw

Number of Decks …                                     9

Passenger capacity …                                 2,238 total

                                                              (556 First class)

                                                              (1,716 Tourist class)

                                                              1,641 whilst cruising

Crew …                                                     960

                                                              800 whilst cruising

Cargo capacity …                                       150,00cu ft

 

 

Go to …          Part One: Images of Canberra’s public Rooms as built

 

                   Part Two: Further photographs of venues mentioned in the report above

 

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Also Visit our Features on the following Orient Lines/P&O Ships

Orient Lines: RMS OrcadesSS Oronsay - SS Oriana - RMS Orion

P&O: RMS Strathaird SS Iberia - SS Canberra

 

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Commenced in the passenger Shipping Industry in May 1960  

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Photographs on ssmaritime and associate pages are by the author or from the author’s private collection. In addition there are some images that have been provided by Shipping Companies and private photographers or collectors. Credit is given to all contributors. However, there are some photographs provided to me without details regarding the photographer/owner concerned. I hereby invite if owners of these images would be so kind to make them-selves known to me (my email address may be found on www.ssmaritime.com only), in order that due credit may be given. I know what it is like, I have seen a multitude of my own photographs on other sites, yet these individuals either refuse to provide credit or remove them when asked, knowing full well that there is no legal comeback when it comes to the net. However, let us show these charlatans up and do the right thing at all times and give credit where credit is due!

This notice covers all pages, although, and I have done my best to ensure that all photographs are duly credited and that this notice is displaced on each page, that is, when a page is updated!

 

 

 

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