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With Reuben Goossens

Maritime Historian, Cruise‘n’Ship Reviewer & Author

“Memories of the JVO”

MS Johan van Oldenbarnevelt

Chapter One

The Pride of the Netherlands

The "Stoomvaart Maatschappij Nederland", SMN or the "Netherlands Line" was set up in 1870 and by 1928 SMN was noted for many ships, especially their newest liner the 16,280 ton Christiaan Huygens. Directly after her trails, on 26 and 28 January 1928 two orders were placed with the Amsterdam shipyard of the "Nederlandse Scheepsbouw Maatschappij." First was NSM project number 194 and NSM project number 165 for a sister ship. These two new liners would be the 89th and 90th ships built for SMN, the "Netherland Line."

The Christiaan Huygens

The keel, for project number 194, was laid down on Friday, June the 29th 1928, and was launched on Saturday 3 August 1929 by Mrs. Tegelberg-Hooft, wife of a director SMN. The ship was given a name honouring a great Dutch hero, Johan van Oldenbarnevelt (1547-1619) who was the Pensionary of the Netherlands during the rule of King Willem de Zwijger (the Silent) and Prince Mauritis. He was the architect of Dutch independence from Spanish rule thus the co-founder of the State of the United Netherlands. He was also one of the founders of the ‘East India (shipping) Company.’

JVO being launched on Saturday 3 August 1929.

The JVO and the Marnix seen side by side during their fitting out.

The JVO's sister ship, MS Marnix van Sint Aldegonde was launched on 21 December 1929. Dimensions of the MS Johan van Oldenbarnevelt and Marnix van Sint Aldegonde were 608 x 74.8ft (185.4 X 22.8m) with a gross tonnage of 19,040, with a displacement of 24,993 tons. At the time, these two would be the largest Dutch ships ever to be built and were the most luxurious liners to be placed on the international trade route to the Dutch East Indies. The ship had seven holds being able to carry up to 9,000 tonnes of cargo. For a ship of her relative size she offered comfortable accommodations in four classes form the luxurious First class, a comfortable Second class, Third class was sufficient to a very simple Fourth class located far forward, thus the JVO and her sister carried a grand total of just over 720 passengers and a crew of 361 to care for them. Interestingly First, second and third classes had interchangeable cabins thus numbers between these classes could vary considerably, thus the maximum interchangeable number of passengers in each class shown in the specification section down the page are shown in brackets.

Postcard of the Marnix Sint Aldegonde

Postcard of the JVO in her original appearance

JVO’s Sulzer diesel engines

The MS Johan van Oldenbarnevelt had two Sulzer diesel engines built by the brothers Sulzer of Winterthur Switzerland, each with ten cylinders of 760mm bore and 1340mm stroke. Each engine produced 7,000bhp giving a respectable speed of 17 knots on two propellers. A novel feature was the incorporation of a spark arrester, designed by SMN's engineer, Mr. Visker, which meant there was no need of silencers. Trails started at 9am on 13 March 1930 as she left Amsterdam. She proceeded at low speed through the North Sea Canal, finally reaching her goal, the open sea. First, her engines were run at 100rpm, then two hours later at the maximum of 115rpm. She reached a smooth and respectable 19 knots with no vibrations detected. Her trails were a complete success. Soon she would soon be ready for full time duty.

The famed artist Carel Adolph Lion Cachet (1864-1945) and sculptor Lambertus Zijl (1866-947) created the fine interiors of the Johan van Oldenbarnevelt. Lion Cachet designed his first SMN interior for the Grotius, back in 1906 and had since undertaken many other projects for the company. He took a delight in using the finest timbers and mixing them with tin and marble. Décor throughout the ship reflected the colonial links of the Netherlands with the Far East. Lamberthus Zijl created the many sculptures and reliefs throughout the ship. His splendid artistry can be seen to this day on land, including various buildings in and around the city of Amsterdam.

As built, the Johan van Oldenbarnevelt had seven passenger decks. Her four classes offered a new level of comfort for her day. Her deck space was vast and featured a unique swimming pool and bar on Sports deck directly in front of the forward funnel.

The pool could be enclosed with a unique sliding glass roof that would be opened upon reaching warmer climates. This was one of the first retractable pool enclosures on a liner, which has become a popular feature on modern cruise ships. In 1998 the P&O Princess Lines, super liner, the 109,000 tonne Grand Princess features a three story high retractable "Clear Crystal Dome" over the Calypso Reef and Pool. The Johan van Oldenbarnevelt and her sister ship were without doubt innovative for their time?

A deck was mainly occupied with accommodations for the ships officers, including the Captain's quarters with a fully equipped hospital located aft. B deck was chiefly occupied with first class cabins. Located just aft of the cabins, was the first class nursery and deck space. A second class sports deck being located further aft. C deck featured the main public rooms and the spacious promenade deck for both first and second-class passengers.

First Class Smoking Room

Public rooms on the Johan van Oldenbarnevelt were elegantly decorated in an Old World style, each featuring fine wooden panels, and furniture. Polished marble (plain and sculptured) were features in both first and second-class lounges. Ceilings in major first class also featured red copper ceilings with various inlaid metals. Forward on C (lounge) deck was the elegant first class ‘Smoking Room.’ Like all the first class public rooms, the Smoking Room was lined in dark timbers, and sported carvings by Lambertus Zijl. This room also featured fine white marble inlays on the walls. The aft wall featured a carved timber relief of the bust of Johan van Oldenbarnevelt and timber panels with a variety of carvings detailing insects and other animal life of the Indies. The ceiling was lined with red beaten copper featuring elegant domed hand blown glass light fittings and large fans for cooling whilst in the tropics. The somewhat dark timbered Smoking Room was brightly lit by four large arched panoramic windows overlooking the bow and two smaller arched windows with a door in the centre on both port and starboard. Furnishings for all first class rooms were in rich ebony with interesting tin inlays or heavy, but finely upholstered lounge chairs. The floor was covered with heavy-duty rubber flooring, featuring an interesting (for its day) modern pattern.

Reading and writing Room

On the port side just aft of the Smoking Room, was the Reading and Writing Room, also known as the Ebony Room, as it featured ebony with white marble panels. Wall panels featured reliefs of two Javanese men and a variety of plant life from the region. The ceiling was painted a light colour with fine decorations, and simple but elegant light fittings and electric fans. Heavy lounge chairs gaily stripped and ebony chairs and tables completed the room. Several writing desks were also placed along the centre aft wall of the Smoking Room. Facing aft, starboard side of the Smoking Room was a passageway and a service bar, which provided drinks for the Smoking Room, Music Salon, and the promenade deck.

Aft again, was the main foyer and grand stairwell up to B deck and down to F deck and the first class Restaurant. The fine timber stairwell and large vestibules on all decks gave an impression grace and of space. On the starboard side was the JVO's only passenger lift. The next room was the Music Hall or Grand Social Hall. This spacious lounge was two decks high and featured fine lead light panels on the upper level. These were lit from behind and were a decorative feature in the first class passageways up on B deck. The ceiling of the Social Room was covered in beaten copper with stainless steel stylised chandeliers cascading down.

Social Hall and Music Salon

This room was lined in fine padouk and featured dark stained teak doors opening forward to the main foyer and grand stairwell. This room also featured many panels with many fine carvings. One unique carving by Zijl was forward over the games cupboard with the name of Johan van Oldenbarnevelt carved in script form. Other carvings that lined the walls and side dividing partitions near the bay windows featured Javanese women, a variety of fauna and insects, which are found throughout Asia. The forward entrance doors had Johan van Oldenbarnevelt's coat of arms above them. An unusual feature in this room was the massive tapestry that covered the aft wall. This room was and is the most loved of the JVO from the beginning of her career to the very end of her life, as this room remained untouched, except for a few changes in its furnishings.

Just aft of amidships were the second class lounges, comprising the Music Saloon, Smoking Room and bar and a nursery further aft. These lounges also featured timbered panels highlighting their unique grain rather than the fancy carvings of first class. Yet, these were elegant yet bright and airy rooms with large windows to promenade deck. The Smoking Room featured the timbered stairwell leading down to the accommodations and the beautiful second class Dining Room. Between first and second class there was a deck area covering the full width of the ship. It served as a unique open deck area, being outdoors, yet undercover. This area was often used for entertainment purposes for both classes as required.

Further accommodation was located on D and E decks with another second class Lounge on D deck. The two main Dining Rooms were located on F deck. First class could seat 270, and second 315. The third class lounge space and dining room were located on D deck with the dining room providing seating for 64. Third class deck space was aft on C and D decks. Accommodation, dining room, and a small lounge for sixty fourth class passengers was located forward near the crew quarters on F deck, with deck space provided on the fo’c’sle. Soon she would accommodate only three classes with fourth class being withdrawn. Five cargo holds were capable of holding over 1,000 tons of cargo and were served by 12 - 3-ton "Stork Hijsch" deck cranes located on the upper decks.

On F deck, the first class Restaurant was a grand and distinctive room, being two decks high in the centre. It featured a fine balustrade and had a bandstand in an alcove on the upper level being E deck. In the evening, diners would enjoy the gentle strains of music provided by the ship's orchestra. The Restaurant, like all first class public rooms, featured fine timbers with panels sporting marble and, rather modern for its day, stainless steel inlays. All cabins on the JVO had portholes, a much needed item those days, especially when reaching warmer climates. Those cabins, which today would be considered to be inside, had a long narrow passage leading to the porthole, allowing light and fresh air to reach the interior cabin. Later in her career she was fitted with much needed forced air to all accommodation.

Johan van Oldenbarnevelt looked typical for her day when it comes to colour scheme. A black hull, white superstructure with two British style short flat-topped funnels, painted buff with black tops. She looked impressive with her two tall masts as she departed on her Maiden voyage on Tuesday 6 May 1930.

A classical JVO, at full speed

However, this voyage was short lived. Whilst still in the North Sea canal, heading for Ijmuiden and the open sea, she collided with the 3,854 tonne freighter "Reggestroom." The Johan van Oldenbarnevelt sustained some damage to plating on her starboard bow. She was taken back to Amsterdam for repairs. Dutch ship repairers had great pride in their newest and largest ever liner, thus they worked day and night. Just three days later, she was again on her way. With her reserve power, she was able to make up much of her lost time. She arrived in Genoa just one day late to her original schedule. By the time she reached Port Said all lost time had been made up. The Johan van Oldenbarnevelt was proving that she was an amazing ship indeed with a great future ahead.

Specifications:

Built by: Netherland’s Shipbuilding Company, Amsterdam

Yard Number: 194

Launched: August 3, 1929

Maiden Voyage: May 6, 1930

IMO number: 5607090

Call sign: PGJB-PFEB

Length: 608ft – 185.4m

Breadth: 74.8ft – 22.8m

Draught: 38.7ft - 11.8m

Gross Registered Tonnage: 19,040 GRT (Gross Registered Tons)

Main Engines: Two Sulzer Diesels built in Winterthur Switzerland – 7,000 BHP

Propellers: Twin

Speed: 17 knots - 19 max

Passengers: First Class: 327 (298) - (Interchangeable numbers between classes)

Second Class: 274 (363)

Third Class: 64 (99)

Fourth Class: 48

Crew: 361

For nine years the Johan van Oldenbarnevelt sailed the companies’ route from Amsterdam to the Dutch East Indies, together with her sister ship the Marnix van St Aldegonde. In addition they also operated a number of pleasure cruises to Scandinavia and other destinations and their “Easter cruises” were especially popular! Then on August 30, 1939 Johan van Oldenbarnevelt under Captain P. J. Bakker operated a single return voyage (39) from Rotterdam to New York under charter to Holland America Line. But upon her return to Amsterdam she resumed her East Indies service voyage 40 on September 27, However due to the war and with the Netherlands having been occupied by Germany, the Johan van Oldenbarnevelt returned to Genoa Italy and operated her next two voyages (41 and 42) from Genoa to the East Indies, although voyage 42 was under Captain K. J. van der Laan. However things were about to change!

Above and below: The Farewell Diner Menu - September 8, 1939 - Prior to arriving in New York

This is the menu from her single pre-war return voyage to New York, whilst under charter by Holland America Line

From the author’s private collection

Chapter Two - JVO the Trooper

JVO Index

Chapters with an * were recently updated

Introduction Remembering the JVO

Chapter 1 The New Pride of the Netherlands

Chapter 2 JVO the Trooper

Chapter 3 A New Service

Chapter 4 New Lease of Life *

Chapter 5 JVO the Cruise Ship *

Chapter 6 Goodbye JVO *

Chapter 7 Cruise Ship TSMS Lakonia

Chapter 8 Lakonia's Final Voyage *This Chapter has 17 new photographs and stories – Dec 2009

Chapter 9 The End is Near

Chapter 10 Conclusion *

Passenger stories

Page One Boelen Family – The night the JVO almost went down

Page Two - NEW Pieter Goldhoorn –1947 – a soldier’s voyage to the East Indies (Indonesia)

Page Three William Hamlyn – 1945 Royal Signalman’s voyage home from wartime duties

Page Four - NEW Laszlo Pal – A Voyage to Canada

Page Five – NEW Harold Heasman – His service on the JVO from March 1942 to August 1943

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